Seoul is a 21st century city, a city remembering the flow of dragons 600 years ago. Seoul is a bicycle ride along the Han River. Libations flow at Jongmyo – a World Heritage site – as one welcomes the spirits of past Joseon kings. Perhaps some earthy dongdongju at a peoples tavern is good enough for the 13 million souls of the city. Share the 15 years during which I have experienced the soul of Seoul.